We May Be Saying Au Revoir To Fashion Week But Let Us Fill You In On Paris’ Standout Shows

Bonjour! Closing this season’s stint of Fashion Week’s, the fashion industry took to the city of love’s cobbled streets to watch an abundance of catwalks.

Kickstarting the jam-packed week last Monday, 26^th September, Paris welcomed Weinsanto’s ‘COMMON LOVE’ show as the designer sent his nearest and dearest down the runway, with each look created around the DNA of each person wearing the looks. Before getting a final glimpse of next season’s showcases from the likes of Fashion Houses, Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu, as the week finally closed its doors on Tuesday 4^th October.

Known for its top cuisine, historic architecture and of course, iconic street style, there was no doubt that this week-long event was going to set the tone for the early months of 2023. Evidence of sheer and layered materials, soft neutral shades (even a hint of pastels), championed by the casual attire of relaxed fit denim and utility styles with an array of pockets, all graced the runways in this capital. For some, the clothing wasn’t the only things shining, such as Demna’s take on the Balenciaga show this year straying away from the usual polished scene of fashion weeks and instead opted for the models to showcase the garments as they trudged through wet mud – we are crying for the shoes, but we have to say, it is rather realistic when living in the UK’s climate! 

Following Milan Fashion Week shows, desired expectations wanted to see a more size inclusive offering of models showcasing the garments, like those of New York and London. But once again, the Paris iteration fell short of casting an array of different body shapes and sizes. Hopes remain for the designers of next season to push for a more inclusive and accurate representation of body standards within our society.

No need to hop on the Eurostar, we’ve curated a rundown of the must-see moments from the past week. So, get comfortable, grab a snack or a hot drink as we fill you in on the latest from the world of fashion.

Stella McCartney

The warmer months may be over for this year, but Stella McCartney officially just declared Summer 2023 as she showcased her brand new collection at the Centre Pompidou piazza on Monday morning. The outdoors democratic demonstration saw models walk down coloured paths, paying homage to the hub of French culture’s façade. Fashion and art fuse as the collection features the work of Japanese artist Yoshitomo Nara, inspired by his slogan “CHANGE THE HISTORY”. Staying true to the classic Stella DNA, placing emphasis on silhouettes and light pieces made from soft fabrics, for the epitome of smart casual. 

This season, which was constructed from 87% conscious materials, we welcomed lacy lingerie, relaxed tailored skirt suits, cargo shorts with a surf girl attitude and peeps of metallic silver crystals embedding in classic t-shirt dresses with a sculptural cape sleeve. McCartney deconstructed denim and spotlighted vegan leather alternative, Alter Mat used to make a bold statement. Yoshitomo Nara’s illustrations were emblazoned upon stretchy crinkle knit dresses, t-shirts, and dress with bias-cut hems (we have a feeling this isn’t the last we’ll see of this collaboration). Bags, we have to talk about them, the Falabella clutches and S-Wave party bags get a crystal embellished makeover, whilst the S-Wave was also crafted using a grape-based alternative to animal leather. The Frayme Mylo, made from a root-like structure of fungi (yes, technically a bag made from mushrooms!) soften this offering of accessories. Just when we thought it couldn’t get any better, the designer introduced a t-shirt that marked the luxury industry’s first-ever garment made from regenerative cotton. Yup, Stella aced this one as usual! 

Botter

‘The Plastic Sea’ was introduced to us last Tuesday, as Botter’s SS23 collection placed focus on collaborating with nature to enable the future of fashion. This show explored what true sustainability means by bringing water to the runway. An elongated silhouette peeled off the torso in a wet suit-esque manner, aquarium-like gloves peek from the sleeves and Botter’s go-to blue shade took on suits inspired by the turquoise Caribbean Sea. A recipe of tailoring and dive attire results in slits and off the shoulder pieces. Deep diving into accessories, the brand debuts the Ice Cube bags – a nod perhaps to climate change, its melting ice caps, and the large role fashion plays within that. We are also welcomed to new fabrics, which arrive in ankle length tube dresses, designed by bio engineers and researchers. Taking the looks off the runway, the brand also announced their partnership with partnership with Notpla, helping the fight against plastic packaging by introducing edible water bubbles made from seaweed and plants. This brand’s innovation and conscious forward-thinking is one to celebrate.

Acne Studios

Celebrating 10 years of showing in Paris, Acne Studios hit the runway once more last Wednesday evening at Palais de Tokyo. The theme? A twisted wedding party. An entirely pink show space filled with beds draped in pink silk sheets and illuminated with handmade shell-encrusted candelabras set the scene, as models strut around the venue to the sound of a live musical performance by avant-harp collective, LEYA & Eartheater. Spring and Summer was in full swing as romantic roses, wedding-night bed sheets, white satin bridal slippers and Valentine’s bows were all subverted into the latest collection of twisted well-loved pieces.

Sickly-sweet pastels met vampy shades of cardinal red, chocolate brown and inky black in the form of elongated eveningwear silhouettes, each sporting unconventional details that spoke undone glamour. Bows were deconstructed, trailing ribbons and a resemblance of knotted bedsheets resulted in dresses and tops. Delicate knit layers, wide shoulder tailoring, blazers vests and gingham-print trousers were big trends from the Acne runway, alongside prints of heart shapes and florals on transparent fabrics and tablecloth gingham. Making its debut, the ‘AS’ Monogram in jacquard print arrives in two new bag shapes, the minimalist Platt and a patchwork denim and vinyl style (both available to shop now through limited early release btw!) Titled the hero shoe, satin bridal wedges with a rosebud toe were accompanied by edgier studded and cracked painted leather clogs. Strappy sandals were also adorned with spike studs, whilst the plush boot/sandal hybrids were constructed from satin and, you guessed it, gingham. We don’t know about you, but this is definitely a wedding I would attend!

ISSEY MIYAKE

We always love a Friday but during Paris Fashion Week ISSEY MIYAKE made it even better by presenting the SS23 collection, ‘A Form That Breathes’. Exploring the making of sculptures, from the very beginning of the creative process to the end, each clothing item showcases how a fabric may seem rigid at first but turns into a soft, fluid form as it moves. The TORSO series took centre stage this season, with its hand-created sculptural shape expressed through a single piece of fabric. This piece of art can be worn on the body due to its firm yet flexible 3D silhouette and draping. The TORSO JUXTAPOSE claimed bold prints on the same fabric, using vivid pigments to thickly and firmly apply the print – giving a texture reminiscent of a sculpture.

We must take a moment to mention the R COAT, a lightweight, stretchy fabrics with a water-repellent finish for upmost functionality, paired alongside the fine and soft R SHIRT made from cotton and nylon stretch yarn – with added volume placed on the shoulders and a curved silhouette stemming down to the cuffs. To complete the collection, an array of knits made an appearance, from a dual colour recycled polyester piece and a graphical representation of an abstract inspired by the body. The latter items were also shown with the ability of styling them backwards, allowing all to enjoy the structure from all angles. 

Coperni

The National Museum of Arts et Métiers, Salle des Textiles room, Friday evening. Yes, you guessed it, Coperni nailed this year’s show at Paris Fashion Week. Located in a room rich in history, built in 1850 by the museum’s architect Léon Vaudoyer, this fashionable flash forward reimagined tailored looks as hybrid pieces, with men’s jackets transformed into feminine-oozing dresses that fell behind in a petticoat format. Representing a change of nature, appearance, and time, a trace of one’s younger self is conveyed through trousers that are slightly too big. Bra cups consistently used, sometimes even as shoulder pads, reshaped pants, curves, and exaggerated busts are all captured within this collection.

But the best was yet to come, as the finale was a moment that perpetuated a mass positive response online. With innovation that the heart of the brand, Coperni teamed up with Fabrican Ltd to embark on a live collaboration that futuristically fused science with fashion. Led by Doctor Manel Torres, leader of Fabrican Ltd and inventor of the spray-on fabric, Bella Hadid entered the runway nude before coming to a halt as Torres sprayed a white liquid onto her body. Spotlighting the female body in the purest and most innovative way, the fabric set before the straps were lightly pulled off the model’s shoulders and a split was cut on one leg, revealing a simplistic yet classic design. This is one for the fashion history books!

Victoria Beckham

Val-de-Grâce, a romantic 17^th century monastery and historic military hospital, saw Victoria Beckham take over on Friday evening with her debut at Paris Fashion Week. Channelling all things bold, feminine, delicate, and sexy, this collection embraced femininity whilst capturing the shift between soft and hard, structure and fluidity. This collection placed a gentle reminder towards the heritage of the Victoria Beckham brand, with silhouettes playing a key role. Aspects of typically masculine constructed tailoring, which arrived in a slightly transparent red mesh, shine-driven leather jackets and midnight black fabrics, were complimented by graceful and sensual dresses, that draped the female form. To complete the whole show, Diane Kendal created reflective, fresh and confident makeup on the models using the designer’s very own beauty line!

Ottolinger

Sunday afternoon, guests of the Ottolinger show found themselves sat on numerous mattress ready for the show’s observation. Giving all things confidence, adventurer, thrillseeker and living for the now, Ottolinger’s SS23 collection took the fearlessness of motor jackets, thigh high boots and micro bralettes to the next level. Asymmetric cut midi skirts, utility-esque trousers arriving in creamy knits and citrus toned denim washes, daring cut-outs and a mismatch of patterned fabrics seamlessly paired together in one garment. A monochrome colour palette was contrasted with pops of electric blue, red, green, as other garments took on warming tones of maroon and burnt orange. This collection detailed the modern woman through the art of fashion, and we’re so here for it!

Need to catch a flight back back London just yet! Catch up on LFW here